Guide
How to Read and Compare Solar Quotes
Not all solar quotes are created equal. Here's what to look for before you sign anything.
Eric Huggins
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Updated March 18, 2026
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8 min read
Price
Cost Per Watt Is the Only Apples-to-Apples Number
Solar quotes come in all shapes. Some show monthly payments. Others show total system cost. A few bury the price behind "estimated savings." None of that helps you compare.
The number you need is cost per watt. Take the total system price (before financing) and divide it by the system size in watts. A $30,000 system at 10,000 watts (10 kW) is $3.00 per watt. Simple.
In Oklahoma, residential solar typically runs between $2.50 and $3.50 per watt for a quality installation. Anything significantly below that range deserves a closer look at the equipment list. Anything above it needs justification.
When you compare quotes, line them up by cost per watt first. Then dig into what you're getting for that price. Two quotes at $3.00/watt can include very different equipment.
Watch for quotes that include battery storage in the total price without separating it. A quote with a battery will always look more expensive than one without. Make sure you're comparing the solar-only price if one quote includes a battery and the other doesn't.
Equipment
Tier 1 Panels vs. Everything Else
Solar panels are classified into tiers by Bloomberg New Energy Finance (BNEF). Tier 1 means the manufacturer has a track record of bankability and production volume. It does not guarantee performance, but it signals financial stability. The company will likely still exist when you need warranty support in year 15.
Tier 2 and Tier 3 panels cost less. Sometimes significantly less. That's how some installers hit rock-bottom pricing. The panels might perform fine for years. But if the manufacturer goes under, your 25-year warranty is worthless paper.
When reviewing a quote, look for the specific panel manufacturer and model number. Then check:
- 1. Wattage per panel. Modern residential panels range from 400W to 440W. Older or cheaper models run 350W to 380W, meaning you need more panels (and more roof space) for the same output.
- 2. Efficiency rating. Higher efficiency means more power from the same panel size. Look for 21% or higher. That is standard for Tier 1 panels in 2026.
- 3. Degradation rate. All panels lose output over time. Quality panels degrade at 0.25% to 0.40% per year. Cheap panels can degrade at 0.50% or more, producing measurably less power by year 10.
- 4. Temperature coefficient. Oklahoma summers push 100°F regularly. Panels with a lower temperature coefficient lose less output in heat. This matters more here than in Seattle.
The inverter matters just as much. Microinverters (like Enphase) convert power at each panel independently, so shade on one panel doesn't drag down the rest. String inverters cost less but connect panels in series. Ask your installer which type is included and why.
Protection
Three Warranties You Should Be Getting
A solar system involves three separate warranties. Most homeowners only hear about one. Make sure your quote addresses all three.
Panel Product Warranty
Covers manufacturing defects. Quality manufacturers offer 25 years. This protects you if a panel fails due to faulty materials or workmanship from the factory. Read the fine print: some warranties are prorated after year 10, meaning coverage decreases over time.
Performance Warranty
Guarantees the panels will produce a minimum percentage of their rated output over time. A typical guarantee is 84% to 87% output at year 25. If panels degrade faster than promised, the manufacturer replaces them. This warranty is only useful if the manufacturer is still in business.
Workmanship Warranty
This one comes from your installer, not the manufacturer. It covers the installation itself: roof penetrations, wiring, mounting hardware, anything the crew touches. Industry standard is 5 years. Some companies offer 10. Others offer 1 year or none at all. Ask directly. If a roof leak develops because of improper flashing around a panel mount, this is the warranty that covers it.
A low quote with a 1-year workmanship warranty is not a deal. You're betting that nothing will go wrong with the installation for 24 years after coverage ends.
Financing
What Financing Terms Actually Mean for Your Wallet
Most solar quotes include a financing option. Some companies lead with a monthly payment that looks suspiciously close to your current electric bill. That's by design. But the monthly payment alone doesn't tell the whole story.
Here's what to look at:
Loan term. Solar loans typically run 10 to 25 years. A longer term means lower monthly payments but significantly more interest paid over the life of the loan. A 25-year loan can cost you 40% to 60% more than the cash price.
Interest rate. Rates vary widely. Some companies advertise low rates but build a "dealer fee" into the system price, sometimes 20% to 30% above the cash price. A $30,000 system with a "dealer fee" might actually cost $38,000 financed, even at a low interest rate. Always compare the financed total cost to the cash price.
Escalator clauses. Some lease and PPA (Power Purchase Agreement) contracts include annual price escalators of 1% to 3%. That low starting rate gets less attractive every year. In Oklahoma, where electricity averages about 12 cents per kWh compared to the national average of about 18 cents, an escalating solar payment can eventually cost more than grid power.
Cash purchase payback. If you can buy outright, a solar system in Oklahoma typically pays for itself in 6 to 8 years through electricity savings. After that, the power is essentially free for the remaining life of the system.
Ask every installer for both a cash price and a financed price. If a company won't give you the cash price, that's a red flag.
Fine Print
What's Included, What's Not and What to Ask
Solar quotes should be detailed enough that you know exactly what you're paying for. If a quote is vague, ask for a line-item breakdown. Here's what should be included in any complete quote:
- Permitting and engineering. Your city or county requires permits for solar installation. Some companies include permitting costs. Others add them after you sign. In Oklahoma City and surrounding areas, expect permit fees to run a few hundred dollars.
- Interconnection with OG&E or PSO. Your utility needs to approve the system and install a bidirectional meter for net metering. This process is handled by the installer. Make sure the quote includes interconnection paperwork and coordination.
- Electrical panel upgrades. Older homes may need a panel upgrade to support solar. This can add $1,500 to $3,000 to the project. A good installer will identify this during the site survey, not after installation starts.
- Roof condition. Panels last 25+ years. If your roof needs replacement in 5 years, you'll pay to remove and reinstall the panels. A responsible installer will assess your roof age and condition before quoting.
- Monitoring. Most modern systems include free monitoring through the inverter manufacturer's app. Some companies charge a monthly monitoring fee. Ask if monitoring is included and for how long.
One more thing specific to Oklahoma: both OG&E and PSO have approved net metering programs. Your excess solar energy credits your bill at a blended rate. But net metering policies can change. Ask your installer how the system is designed relative to your actual usage. A system sized to offset 100% of your bill gives you the best return without overproducing energy you can't use.
Get at least three quotes. Compare them side by side using cost per watt, equipment specs, warranty terms and total financed cost. The cheapest quote is rarely the best value. The most expensive one isn't automatically the best either. The right quote is the one that gives you quality equipment, strong warranties and a fair price with no surprises.
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